A Presidential Inauguration: Climbing Mt. Washington in Winter

I’m in training for my next adventure, a three day Winter Mountaineering Skills course, that ends with a winter ascent of Mt. Washington (6,288 ft), in New Hampshire’s Presidential Mountain range. On day one, I’ll learn how to use an ice axe and practice using my crampons on moderate snow and ice terrain. The focus of day two is on roped travel, snow anchors, snow belays, avalanche hazard awareness, and winter camping, including an overnight trip in the Whites. Then, on day three, we’ll climb Mt. Washington.
The course is taught by the International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) out of North Conway, NH. When I signed up a few weeks ago, there were still 2 spots left in the course, so if you’re interested in joining us, you should give them a call. The price is pretty reasonable and they supply all the gear that you don’t have, from mountaineering boots to 4 season tents.
If you’re not familiar with Mt Washington (NH), it is the highest peak in the Northeastern United States and is famous for its severe weather. The usual route of ascent for winter climbers is via Lion Head. This route begins at the Appalachian Mountain Club Pinkham Notch Visitor Center on Route 16 (between Jackson and Gorham, about one mile south of Wildcat Ski Area). The route is about an eight mile round-trip and doable in one day with an early start, provided you have the right gear and experience. Mt Washington is a dangerous climb and should not be attempted by novices in winter: in fact, it’s an intimidating peak, even in summer.
I signed up for the IMCS class after deciding that I wanted to learn more about mountaineering and winter camping this year. Next year, when I have a little more experience and have acquired all the necessary gear, I plan on attending the Adirondack Mountain Club’s Winter Mountaineering School.
I’m preparing for the IMCS course by getting into the best shape I can beforehand. I’m working out at least an hour a day in the gym, and snowshoeing and indoor climbing when I can manage. So far, this conditioning is paying off. I was out today snowshoeing in a foot of fresh powder for a few hours, and I’m tired but not cataonic.
I have about 4 more weeks to prepare for my course which occurs the weekend before Barak Obama’s inaugaration. His Presidential inauguration, which will occur the day after my ascent of Mt Washington, should prove to be exceptionally memorable.
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Hi, love the info you provided.
(2) of us want to do a winter ascent of mt washington. we`re very experienced(me–craig, some 14ers, haute route, AT section hiker, etc..but never been on crampons or ropes—larry, all 14ers, kili,ranier,etc…but has parkinson desease and needs help–preferrably a VERY experienced guide).
can you help us get to the top and /or get the logistics down.
i would really, really appreciate any help you can provide as this will be larrys last year to climb—
thank you sincerely,
craig cassity
visit “team fox” of MJF foundation for parkinsons research, for our upcoming climb of 7-7(7 summits in 7 days attempt) in July 09
Craig – your best bet is to contact the International Mountain Climbing School(IMCS) in North Conway directly for guiding services. They are considered tops in the area and I know they have taken physically challenged hikers up to Mt. Washington before. I think what you are doing with 7-7 and MJF is incredibly inspiring. Thanks for letting me know about it.