More Winter Layering Experiments
We got about 6 inches of fresh powder on Saturday night, so I got to go snowshoeing on Sunday and run another winter layering experiment. I think I’ve finally worked out a clothing system that will keep me warm without a lot of bulk. It’s based on the vapor barrier technique espoused by Mark Twight and Jame Mason in their book Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High.
I’m wearing three layers on top, starting with a wicking Patagonia Capilene 2 synthetic base layer, followed by an Outdoor Research Celestial Gore-Tex Paclite Jacket, and an REI Momentum jacket. The Gore-Tex Jacket works like a vapor barrier, keeping heat and moisture close to my skin. This creates a moist micro-climate that inhibits further perspiration and helps keep down the amount of water I need to stay hydrated in cold winter air.
The Momentum fabric in the outer jacket is highly breathable and pulls moisture from inside the Gore-Tex Jacket keeping me from getting too wet. I was able to confirm that the Momentum Jacket was performing properly today as evidenced by wetness on its surface in my underarms and on my back. If you want to know more about Momentum, check out the fabric mojo page at Mountain Laural Designs, under breatheable water resistant fabrics. I lucked into this jacket a few weeks ago at the REI clearance.
In today’s trial, I snowshoed just under 6 miles wearing a full 25 lb pack and was able to regulate my temperature and sweat levels simply by tugging on a few zippers on the outer coat and the inner coat. This is good because it means I don’t have to stop to take off or put on layers when I’m hiking or climbing. All these activities waste time, which you don’t always have if you’re traversing dangerous ground in winter. Think avalanches.
In addition, these three layers are very thin and easy to move in which will improve my agility when hiking and climbing. They also fit easily under my fourth layer, a bulky down jacket. However, I’m thinking about switching this out for a synthetic Primaloft coat or a Montbell thermawrap jacket where the insulation will not be degraded by moisture evaporating from the lower layers. I may just bring all of them on my next big trip to Mt. Washington, despite the weight, to test which is sufficient for belaying and standing around in camp. The Montbell is very lightweight and I’m not sure it’s going to cut it if I’m not moving and generating heat. Conditions on Washington are expected to be very cold this weekend, perfect for testing these issues.
Below the hip belt, I’m wearing a pair of Under Armour Long Compression Shorts, underneath synthetic Patagonia Capilene 1 long underwear, and Mountain Hardware Cohesion Pants on top. I’ve found that the compression shorts are very good at wicking away crotch and crack sweat that can produce thigh chafing or monkey butt.
This can be a big issue in the winter, particularly if you are wearing a backpack. Under these conditions, the backpack itself acts as a vapor barrier, causing your back to sweat which drips down into your underwear layer. After a few hours, the application of zinc oxide can help mitigate crack moisture. Forty Below also sells a vapor barrier vest for mountaineering that might help. I thought I’d email Joel Attaway who runs Research and Development there to ask.
For my extremities, I’m wearing a pair of OR windstopper fleece gloves, high gaiters, an OR windstopper fleece balaclava, REI synthetic liner socks and REI wool/syntheic blend hiking socks.The fleece gloves are great but they get wet after a few hours. On my next trip I will also be bringing a pair of Gore-Tex gloves and mittens with removeable primaloft liners, which I can switch out if needed.
The balaclava I’m using does not cover my nose or the rest of my face, so I’ll be bringing along a Serius Neoprene facemask if the wind starts to blow and I need additional face protection. The facemask is made from fuzzy neoprene so it is exceptionally comfortable and I’m very familiar with the insulating properties of wet Neoprene from my days as a 4-season whitewater kayaker. In addition, I have a pair of Scott Storm OTG goggles that will prevent from eyeballs from freezing. These goggles are coated with an anti-fogging agent and I’ve coated my glasses lenses with Cat Crap on top of that to prevent them from fogging.
Although I haven’t had much time to burn this system in with actual use, I’m feeling confident about its insulating properties. But experience is always the best test. I’ll keep you posted about its real world performance on my next expedition, this weekend.
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Hm, great suggestions. I definitely have winter layering issues. In SAR, we often have to hustle up the peaks (highest is 12,633 feet) with temps easily in the single digits at the base and well below zero up top (or not even close to the top). I get all sweaty on the way up, then get uncomfortably cold while packaging the patient, then off and on hot and cold on the way down as we stop and go, stop and go. It’s a real challenge to regulate my temperature.
Ramkitten - I can heartily vouch for this system, it’s made a big difference for me too this winter.
Earlylite - great to know the experiment is continuing successfully! By the way, is that a Black Diamond Half-Dome helmet I see hanging on your pack? Also, which plastic boots did you eventually decide on?
Good eye - I’m impressed. That is a Black Diamond Half Dome helmet. I have a small head and it fits really well. As for the plastic boots: I’ve decided to be very picky and keep trying on models until I’m satisfied with the fit. So for this weekend, I’ll be renting from my guides who have a store and carry several models of Asolo and Koflach, and there are other outfitters in North Conway who carry Scarpas. The fitting tips you gave me have proved very helpful. Thx!