I always get nostalgic about backpacking in Scotland when I give presentations about my experiences backpacking coast-to-coast in the TGO Challenge. While it’s only been 5 months since Martin Rye and I hiked from Torridon to Montrose, it already seems like it’s been forever since I saw the magnificent Scottish mountains and landscape and sunk my feet into wet peat!
I gave this latest talk about Scotland this week to the Worcester Chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club in central Massachusetts, about an hour west of Boston. Like the Boston Chapter, they have an excellent monthly speaker series with many well-known speakers, including my “boss” Andrew Skurka, who will be giving a talk at their annual meeting about his Alaska and Yukon Expedition in a few weeks (for details).
Coping with Bad Weather
Having backpacked across Scotland twice now, I have a better appreciation for the differences between backpacking there and in the United States and the additional skills a hiker needs to master to have a good experience. While there are many factors that can make or break a backpacking trip, the most important ones in Scotland are being prepared for the weather and good navigation skills.
Scotland has a maritime mountain environment which is heavily influenced by weather blowing in from the Atlantic Ocean that sweeps cross-country in a west-to-east pattern. Predicting the interaction between mountains and bad weather is tricky business, because mountains can create their own local weather variations, but as a rule of thumb, non-winter weather in the west tends to be a bit more malevolent than the weather in the east, once a storm makes landfall and loses energy overland.
While the weather reports published by the Met Office are very detailed and account for local variations, Scotland is remote enough that you can’t count on having cell phone service to access them. An important skill therefore, is to stay on top of weather trends and track barometric pressure, so you can decide when it’s safe to climb a peak or walk by it, or sit in your tent for the day and wait for a storm to pass. It’s rare for United States hikers to stay hold up for a day in their shelter in bad weather, but not all that uncommon in Scotland and other parts of the UK.
Being an excellent navigator with a map and compass is also a skill that will stand you in good stead in Scotland, where visibility can be abysmal in poor weather. There are many more dimensions to this than being good with a map and compass though, although that is also an essential skill.
For long journeys, a day or more in length, it really pays to use a UK-specific mapping tool like Mapyx Quo, Routebuddy, or grough route so you can plan out alternative routes and collaborate with others. The UK’s digital and paper maps are both excellent and far more up to date than their US counterparts. Of course, there is no substitute for local information, including information about peat bog locations which are not encoded on UK maps, so you need to develop these any way you can (forums, blogs, etc) to find out what conditions on the ground are like including washed out bridges, landslips, high water conditions, bothy locations, snow depth, and so on.
In addition to conventional navigation tools, the maps for smart phone apps are excellent in the UK, especially for ViewRanger, and are well worth bringing a smart phone along to get spot GPS position checks even if you don’t buy local cell phone service. Back roads in the UK, such as estate land rover tracks, are very dynamic, and being able to match your location to a road can mean the difference between a hot meal in the pub and another cold, wet night on the moor.
For More Information
Hiking or Backpacking in another country where you are unfamiliar with the terrain, weather, and other local peculiarities is a wonderful experience, but I can’t emphasize the importance of mastering as many different hiking-related skills as possible before your trip, if only so you get used to being a quick study when faced with a novel situation.
If you have any further questions about hiking or backpacking in Scotland, I’ll try to answer them below. In the mean time, enjoy the fantastic scenery in the slide show above.
- Backpacking across Scotland with Philip Werner in the TGO Challenge by Martin Rye
- How to Hike Across Peat Bogs: Fear No Moor
- TGO Challenge Tips for Yanks and Non-Residents
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