Ultralight backpacking tents are a good option when you’re trying to reduce the weight of your backpacking gear but you’re unwilling to give up the comfort of a tent and sleep under a tarp without insect protection. The lightest weight ultralight backpacking tents are made with Dyneema Composite Fabrics (DCF) and use trekking poles instead of tent poles to save weight. While many are single-wall tents and more prone to internal condensation, some are double-wall tents or a hybrid combination of the two. See our advice at the bottom of the page for advice about how to choose between these different options.
Here are the 10 best ultralight backpacking tents that we recommend for 2021.
Make / Model | People | Material | Weight | Price |
---|---|---|---|---|
Zpacks Duplex | 2 | DCF | 19.0 oz | $599 |
Gossamer Gear DCF Two | 2 | DCF | 20.8 oz | $589 |
Tarptent Double Rainbow Li | 2 | DCF | 28.6 oz | $649 |
Zpacks Altaplex | 1 | DCF | 15.4 oz | $585 |
Tarptent Aeon Li | 1 | DCF | 17.3 oz | $535 |
Gossamer Gear "The One" | 1 | Sil/PU Nylon | 17.7 oz | $299 |
Tarptent Protrail Li | 1 | DCF | 17.7 oz | $499 |
Dan Durston X-Mid 1 | 1 | Sil/PU Poly | 27.9 oz | $220 |
Tarptent Notch Li | 1 | DCF | 21.5 oz | $599 |
Tarptent Stratospire Li | 2 | DCF | 29.1 oz | $689 |
1. Zpacks Duplex Tent (2P)
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Zpacks
2. Gossamer Gear DCF Two (2P)
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Gossamer Gear
3. Tarptent Double Rainbow Li (2P)
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Tarptent
4. Zpacks Altaplex (1P)
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Zpacks
5. Tarptent Aeon Li (1P)
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Tarptent
6. Gossamer Gear “The One” (1P)
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Gossamer Gear
7. Tarptent ProTrail Li (1P)
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Tarptent
8. Dan Durston X-Mid 1 (1P)
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Amazon
9. Tarptent Notch Li (1P)
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Tarptent
10. Tarptent Stratospire Li (2P)
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Tarptent
Ultralight Backpacking Tent Selection Guide
The backpacking tent manufacturers who make trekking poles tents use a wide range of different materials and designs. When shopping for a tent, it’s important to understand the tradeoffs of the models you’re considering and how they can complement your adventures.
Ultralight Tent Materials and Price Points
Trekking poles tents are available in a variety of different materials and at different price points. Dyneema DCF is the lightest weight material and the most expensive, in part because it requires specialized manufacturing processes. Tents made with Silpoly, Silnylon, and PU coated silnylon are much less expensive than Dyneema because they can be sewn using conventional methods. They’re also roughly comparable in price. It’d be difficult to say which is the best fabric to make tents with because fabric quality varies widely depending on the manufacturer and specification to which it is made. That said, ultralight tentmakers are beginning to switch away from silnylon to silpoly because it has less stretch than silnylon and absorbs less water.
- Tents made with Dyneema DCF are very expensive, but also very lightweight, waterproof, and strong. They are more prone to damage from sunlight over the long term, but that’s seldom an issue for most people. Dyneema tents must be folded when packed not stuffed, but can still be surprisingly bulky despite their low weight.
- Tents made with siliconized polyester (silpoly) are an attractive alternative to Dyneema DCF because they don’t stretch much overnight or when they get wet from rain. They’re also far less expensive and come seam-taped, so you can use them out of the box without any seam sealing.
- Tents made with PU-coated silnylon are generally more waterproof than regular silnylon, but you need to compare their waterproofing specs to be sure. The chief benefit of the PU coating over regular silnylon is improved UV resistance and the fact that the material can be factory seam-taped.
- Tents made with silnylon are still common because it’s an easy material for manufacturers to work with. While silnylon does stretch at night and when it gets wet, it’s not as big a deal as people make it out to be. Silnylon tents must be manually seam-sealed before they can be used in rainy weather. While you can do this yourself, my advice would be to pay the manufacturer to do it for you so you get a tent that’s ready to be used when it arrives.
Single-wall vs Double-wall Tents
Ultralight backpacking tents are available in single-wall and double-wall models, with separate inner tents. While both are susceptible to internal condensation, the advantage of a double-wall tent is the moisture collects on the underside of the rainfly and not on a wall that has contact with your sleeping bag, quilt, or other gear. The inner tent and rainfly on many double-wall tents can also be used independently from one another, for example as a standalone tarp or as a bug bivy, which can extend their utility. The advantage of a single wall tent over a double wall one is usually reduced weight.
If tent condensation ever becomes an issue for you, we recommend carrying a small absorbent face towel to wipe it away. Tent condensation is a small price to pay for reduced gear weight and it won’t kill you unless you’re a witch (wizard-0f-Oz reference).
Headroom
Many ultralight backpacking tents pole tents have a pyramid shape which can limit the amount of headroom and foot room available under the sloping ceiling. Lying on your back and staring at a ceiling that’s three inches from your face can be unpleasantly claustrophobic. Make sure you examine the length of the tents you’re considering, in addition to their peak heights.
Trekking pole tents that require two poles to set up usually have two peaks, which can increase the amount of livable space overhead, compared to a one-pole tent. Some tent manufacturers also reduce the slope of the ceiling to create more headroom. The best example of this is Tarptent’s use of carbon fiber end struts to increase the amount of room under the ceilings at the head and foot ends of their tents. The downside of these end struts is that it can make tents harder to pack horizontally in a backpack.
Vestibules
Vestibules are good for gear storage, especially wet gear storage, and for cooking under cover in windy or rainy weather. Most one-pole tents have a single vestibule, while two-pole tents generally have two. When buying a two-person tent, you’ll definitely want two doors and two vestibules so you can each have your own entrance and gear storage area. It can also be quite useful to have two doors and two vestibules on a one-person tent, especially if you anticipate stormy weather conditions where you might have to hunker down in your tent for a day. For that matter, many people use two-person tents as solo tents, something that’s feasible without a major weight penalty since most ultralight backpacking tents are quite lightweight.
Pole Length
When you choose a trekking pole tent, you want to make sure that it is compatible with the make and model of trekking pole you use if you have a preference. Fixed-length poles that are not adjustable can be difficult to use with trekking pole tents which have very specific height requirements. In addition, you want to make sure that your trekking pole handles are compatible if they have a non-standard grip.
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Why does Dyneema have to be folded and not stuffed? The theory of stuffing is that it avoids creating folds which will cause the fabric to fail through repeated refolding in the same place. How does that theory not hold for Dyneema? Is it a practical issue due to bulk or that the micro folds of stuffing cause more point stress or something else?
It doesn’t pack very well when stuffed. Repeated stuffing can also cause the DCF to scrunch up and “shrink” until full tension is applied in all directions. I imagine that’s more of a problem with things like tarps and stuff sacks than tents, though.
DCF is remarkably stiff for such a light weight material.
Stuffing creates an order of magnitude or more hard creases than folding. Had creasing causes unequal stresses on the layers and breaks down the laminate.
I fold my Altaplex flat and it takes up less space in my pack and there are numerous locations to store it in my pack when its flat. Also because Darwin said to! LOL
Prefer freestanding tents myself.
No Lunar Solo this year? These are all terrific, so perhaps it’s just a decision to create a “workable” list with variety. I have had mine in every imaginable weather except extreme cold. High winds, storms, etc., and always been snug and dry. I do pitch out the ends with their supplied tie outs, and have plenty of room for self and gear (I’m 5’8”).
And, at 24oz., it’s right up there. Just puttin’ in a plug for my beloved and stalwart shelter;-)
I don’t remember if it was on this list last year. I did consider it naturally, but it’s slipped into our budget category this year.
https://sectionhiker.com/sectionhiker-gear-guide/10-best-budget-backpacking-tents-250/
I have to say, these really are all much better tents. I have nothing against seam sealing, but the world has moved on.
Yes, indeedy. I’ve been looking at dyneema, but don’t tell my Lunar Solo!
Still trekkin’ up there in the snow. Perhaps I’ll c u one day. cheers
I confess I haven’t read this whole article but I hike with Grandpa a lot, and his tarptent is awesome and if was the Li model which it isn’t I think it would be probably on top. Mainly because you can set it up without the inner net and his vestibule seems good
One thing that I’m not sure of if these weights include stakes and guylines?
My sixmoon trekker weighs in at about 29oz but after stakes and guylines I’m at 32.5 oz. Of course it’s only in the low $200’s, and I can’t imagine any tent setting up or tearing down as fast as it, but again it’s not an option to set up without inner netting and the vestibule really won’t completely cover your pack, but it has room to stuff inside. I put pack at the foot.
I think the sixmoon haven zero would be a runner up as a contender for one of the top 10 as well.
Any comparison on footprint/pitch space required for the Protrail Li (w guy lines) & the Notch Li? It would seem the Protrail Li is less but once you think through it they may be more similar. Thanks!
The Protrail Li is narrower, but not by that much.
Thanks, as always!!