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A Thirteen Falls Loop

Backpacking a Thirteen Falls Loop
A 2-3 day, 31 mile scenic loop that journeys into the most remote part of the Pemigewasset Wilderness below Franconia Ridge, climbing 3 four thousand footers: Mt Garfield, Owls Head Mountain, and Mt Galehead. The route runs along the major watercourses of “The Pemi” past cascades, pools, and gorgeous swimming holes, providing plenty of opportunity to kick off your shoes and soak your feet in the clear mountain streams or jump in.

Thirteen Falls Loop

Download PDF Map

Rating

D5 - Toggle Open for Key

Distance

A: Less than 15 miles in distance

B: 15-20 miles

C: 20-25 miles

D: 25-30 miles or less

E: more than 30 miles

Elevation Gain

1: 3000 ft or less

2: 4000 ft or less

3: 5000 ft or less

4: 6000 ft or less

5: over 6000 ft

Distance/Elevation Gain

30 miles w/7500′ of cumulative elevation gain

White Mountain 4000 Footers

  • Garfield
  • Owlshead
  • Galehead

Recommended Duration

2-3 days

Season

mid-June thru October

Permits Required

None.

Regulations

Backcountry Camping Regulations for the White Mountain National Forest

A substantial portion this route passed through the Pemigewasset Wilderness Area. Please observe all wilderness area restrictions. 

New to the White Mountains? Read this Quick and Dirty Guide to Backpacking in the White Mountains for information about camping regulations, road access, trail shuttles, lodging, dangerous wildlife, weather, etc.

Trailhead Directions

While this is a loop hike, there is a short 1.5 mile gravel-topped road walk required from the Galehead Trail Parking Area to the Garfield Trail Parking Area at the end of the hike. If you have two cars, you may opt to leave one at the Galehead Parking Area to avoid the road walk.

Garfield Trail Trailhead

Gale River Trail Trailhead

Maps

The Appalachian Mountain Club publishes the best maps for the White Mountains and I’d recommend buying the complete AMC White Mountain Waterproof Map Set. It contains three waterproof maps (2 regions per map) although you only need carry one or two on any trip. I also use GPS apps for navigating, but these maps contain relevant trail, shelter and topographic information that is often not included in electronic maps. More detailed trail descriptions can also be found in the AMC White Mountain Guide, which is considered the hiking bible for the region. It includes detailed driving directions to remote trailheads and is indipensible for navigating to them, especially when you're out of cell tower range. Take photos of the pages you need using your phone for easy reference, instead of carrying the entire book with you on hikes.

Navigation Apps

I also recommend purchasing a GPS Phone App such as Far Out's White Mountain National Forest Guide, which lists most of the trails, trailheads, shelters, campsites, views, and water sources in the White Mountains National Forest. GaiaGPS is another GPS Phone App, which is stronger in terms of topographic map coverage for the White Mountains but does not have as much information about trailheads, shelters, campsites, views, and water sources. I use both frequently.

Trail Sequence

The route follows the following trails in sequence.

  1. Garfield Trail 4.8 miles
  2. Garfield Ridge Trail 0.2 miles (to Mt Garfield Summit)
  3. Garfield Ridge Trail 0.2 miles (back)
  4. Garfield Ridge Trail 0.5 miles
  5. Franconia Brook Trail 2.2 miles
  6. Lincoln Brook Trail 3.5 miles
  7. Owls head Path 1.1 miles (up)
  8. Owls head Path 1.1 miles (down)
  9. Lincoln Brook Trail 3.4 miles
  10. Franconia Brook Trail 3.5 miles
  11. Twin Brook Trail 2.7 miles
  12. Frost Trail 0.5 miles (up)
  13. Frost Trail 0.5 miles (down)
  14. Garfield Ridge Trail 0.6 miles
  15. Gale River Trail 4.0 miles
  16. Gale River Loop Road 1.5 miles

Scenic Highlights

The following list provides cumulate distances on the route to each view or landmark.

  • 5.0 miles – Mt Garfield Summit and fire tower foundations
  • 5.2 miles – Mt Garfield Campsite
  • 7.9 miles – Thirteen Falls and Tentsite
  • 11.4 miles – Owls Head Slide
  • 12.5 miles – Owls Head Summit
  • 20.5 miles – Thirteen Falls Tentsite (again)
  • 23.2 miles – Galehead Hut
  • 23.7 miles – Galehead Summit
  • 28.8 miles – Galehead Trail Parking
  • 30.3 miles – Garfield Trail Parking

Camping/Shelter Options

Water

Natural water sources are plentiful in the White Mountains although you may need to descend to them from ridgelines along side trails if you run short. There is usually abundant water along this route, In addition, when the AMC Huts are in season, anyone can stop in and resupply their water for free from the small sink located near the hut kitchen. In any case, carry a detailed topographic map with you and don’t rely on the overview map provided with this trip description to find water sources.

The Appalachian Mountain Clubs Huts are taking reservation in 2023. Contact the AMC for reservations and information at outdoors.org. (Note: You don't have to stay in their facilities when hiking in the White Mountains.) All Randolph Mountain Club Cabins have reopened for 2023 on a first-come-first-serve basis.

Weather Cautions

There are numerous stream crossing on this route and you’re bound to get your feet wet. Many of the larger stream crossings may become hazardous after heavy rains, so use caution when crossing, wait for the water level to drop, or seek an alternate route. Water levels tend to drop lower in the summer, but the best way to avoid high water is to postpone hikes after major rain events or to check recent trip reports about water levels at NETrailConditions.com.

On The Trail

Start at the Garfield Trail parking area on Gale River Loop Rd and follow the Garfield Trail for 4.8 miles, gradually climbing up an old forest road through open forest until you reach the Garfield Ridge Trail junction. The trail climbs gradually with a few rock-hoppable small stream crossings, although there are often muddy stretches where the trail has eroded.

Mount Garfield (4500') - Middle
Mount Garfield (4500′) – middle Peak, with Franconia Ridge to the left, and Galehead Mountain in the foreground.

Continue on the Garfield Ridge Trail for 0.2 miles to the Mt Garfield summit, hiking across several open ledges to the foundation of an old fire tower to admire the view. You can clearly see the Twins, the Bonds, Owls Head, Mt Carrigan, and Franconia Ridge from this vantage point.

Retracing your steps, descend to the Garfield Trail Junction and follow the Garfield Ridge Trail, passing the spur trail to the Garfield Shelter and Tentsite on your left. There’s a good water source at the spur trail junction, but filtering or purification is recommended given the popularity of the mountain.

Rocky drop below the Garfield Ridge Shelter and Tentsite
Rocky drop below the Garfield Ridge Shelter and Tentsite

Continue past the spur trail for 0.5 miles, down a steep and rocky drop that often has a small stream running through it. Grab onto the trees and rocks to your right and take your time descending. Turning around and climbing down the drop backwards, like on a ladder, can be helpful if you’re carrying a heavy pack.

Turn right onto the Franconia Brook Trail and follow it 2.2 miles besides a stream to Thirteen Falls, the site of a series of waterfalls over open rock ledges. Be careful of slippery rocks if you venture onto the open ledges because the current can be quite strong after rainfall.

From here, you have a number of options. You can follow a short spur trail to the Thirteen Falls Tentsite and call it a day if you’re tired or want to do a little swimming, or you can continue on toward the base of the Owls Head Path and camp in a dispersed wilderness setting.

Bog bridges along the Lincoln Brook Trail

If you continue towards Owls Head, look for the Lincoln Brook Trail on the opposite side of the falls. This used to be the hardest trail to follow in the White Mountains because it was kept wild and lightly maintained by trail crews. However, there’s been substantial work done on the trail in recent years and it is now quite easy to follow.

Continue along the Lincoln Brook Trail until you come to the base of the Owls Head Path, which is not technically a trail, but an avalanche slide that you’ll scramble up to the Owls Head summit. The bottom of the slide is usually marked by a rock cairn but it may be missing if the Forest Service has dismantled it. Being a wilderness area, man-made structures are forbidden, but local hikers often rebuild the cairn in an endless tug of war with the Forest Service.

Rock cairn at the base of Owls Head Path
Rock cairn at the base of Owls Head Path

If the cairn is missing, you can usually guess where you are anyway. The area at the bottom of the slide has been severely overused by campers, which you can tell by the denuded trees and the pressed-earth campsites in the area. A GPS or GPS Phone App can also be quite useful for finding the path. If you decide to camp in the area, please follow the Backcountry Camping Regulations for the White Mountain National Forest and Leave No Trace so others can enjoy this spot in the future.

The Owls Head Path climbs very steeply up an avalanche slide made up of loose gravel and unstable rock. It’s relatively safe to climb and descend, but you want to avoid dislodging rocks on any hikers coming up the path below you. The path is not officially marked, but it climbs up to a well-beaten herd path that angles left to the summit, which is also marked with a rock cairn.

Owls head Summit Cairn
Owls Head summit cairn

Once you’ve summitted, retrace your steps down the Owls Head Path to the Lincoln Brook Trail. As you descend, you can catch a glimpse of the Lincoln Slide, another avalanche track on the west face of Mt Lincoln along Franconia Ridge.

Lincoln Slide taken from the Owls Head Slide (2017)
Lincoln Slide taken from the Owls Head Slide (2017)

When you reach the bottom of the Owls Head Path, turn left (south) onto the Lincoln Brook Trail. Follow it 3.5 miles to the Franconia Brook Trail, crossing Lincoln Brook several times before finally crossing Franconia Brook. Some of these crossings may be difficult in high water, so exercise caution.

I’ve always found it easiest and the most stable to just walk across them still wearing my shoes since many are too wide to rock hop. I view it as a way to wash out my shoes and socks, which have invariably gotten muddy along the trail.

Southern section of the Franconia Brook Trail
Southern section of the Franconia Brook Trail

Turn left onto the Franconia Brook Trail for 3.5 miles, this time headed north and looping around the west side of Owls Head Mountain. This section of the Franconia Brook Trail is easy to hike, with a gentle grade back up to Thirteen Falls.

Turn right (northeast) onto the Twin Brook Trail and climb 2.7 miles to the AMC Galehead Hut. This trail runs above Twin Brook which you can often hear, but not see through the trees. When you get to the hut, resupply your water if you need more, and hang out on the porch a bit to visit with the people sitting there. It’s not unusual to run into a northbound or southbound Appalachian Trail thru-hiker because they like to stop at the huts and enjoy a little hospitality.

Galehead hut from the ledge on Mount Gale during an early autumn frost
Galehead Hut from the ledge on Mount Galehead during an early autumn frost

From the hut, follow the Frost Trail 0.5 miles to the viewless summit of Mt Galehead. A side path on the way leads to a small ledge with a view of the hut and South Twin Mountain, which towers above it.

Gale River Trail in Autumn
Gale River Trail in Autumn

Retrace your steps back to the hut and take the Garfield Ridge Trail, around the rear of the hut, for 0.6 miles to the Gale River Trail. Turn right on the Gale River Trail and follow it, steeply at first, along an old railroad grade to the trailhead parking area at the end. From the lot, turn left onto the Gale River Loop Road and walk 1.6 miles to the start of your journey at the Garfield Trail trailhead where you parked your car.

About the author

Philip Werner has hiked and backpacked over 8500 miles in the United States and the UK and written over 3000 articles as the founder of SectionHiker.com, noted for its backpacking gear reviews and hiking FAQs. A devotee of New Hampshire and Maine hiking and backpacking, Philip has hiked all 650+ trails in the White Mountains twice and has completed 10 rounds of the 48 peaks on the White Mountains 4000 footer list with over 560 summits in all four seasons. He is also the author of Backpacking the White Mountain 4000 Footers, a free online guidebook of the best backpacking trips in the White Mountains in New Hampshire and Maine. He lives in New Hampshire. Click here to subscribe to the SectionHiker newsletter.

Safety Disclaimer

This trip plan can not alert you to every hazard, anticipate your experience, or limitations. Therefore, the descriptions of roads, trails, routes, shelters, tent sites, and natural features in this trip plan are not representations that a particular place or excursion will be safe for you or members of your party. When you follow any of the routes described on SectionHiker.com, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Under normal conditions, such excursions require the usual attention to traffic, road and trail conditions, weather, terrain, the capabilities of your party, and other factors. Always check for current conditions, obey posted signs, and Backcountry Camping and Wilderness Area Regulations. Hike Safe and follow the Hiker responsibility code. 

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19 comments

  1. There are still lots of places in the white to experience solitude during the summer months but weekends near these popular 4000 footers isn’t one of them. Weekdays and weekends after a major holiday are when the forest is emptiest, even The Bonds and Franconia Ridge. I’ll also be posting a trip plan next week for a few peaks in the North Country where there are always a lot fewer people.

  2. Only the Garfield summit. Treeline starts at about 4500′ in the Whites.

  3. It is very easy to find a legal, dispersed campsite in the Whites below treeline.

  4. Yes, I do this hike in 2 days.

  5. Doesn’t matter. You can do that too.

  6. Hi Philip,
    what are the rules on campfires and can one find dead wood easily? No cutting trees for firewood, for our group.

  7. All this information you provide on the Whites is awesome. Just got back from an amazing 3 day backpacking trip with my son and your info was super helpful, so just wanted to say thanks!

  8. Hello Philip, love the indepth info and reviews you provide. Thank you for it all.
    I’m thinking about hiking a semi-Pemi loop this July and wonder what advice you have on hiking the Franconia Brook Trail. Being in the center of the Wilderness, I’m wondering if it might be challenging to follow. Are there any blazes or signage? I’ve hiked some of the ridges around the Pemi and had no trouble, but suspect it might be different in the heart of it. Aslo I plan to hike the Twin Brook Tr to the ridge. I have similar questions about it.

    Sue

    • The Franconia Brook Trail is really easy to follow. It used to be a railroad line and goes due south. The Twin Brook Trail is a lot harder to follow, especially near the bottom, near Thirteen falls. After about a half mile, it gets trivial to follow. The leaves obscure the tread and I don’t recall it being heavily blazed. I was there last October.

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