Backpacking a Bonds Traverse

Backpacking a Bonds Traverse

A Bonds Traverse is a 2 day, 20 mile traverse of Zealand Mountain, West Bond, Mt Bond, and Bondcliff Mountain. Bondcliff is one of the most picturesque mountains on the 4000 footers list and many hikers like to pose for photos on its western cliff. While it is possible to day hike this route on a very long day, it’s much nicer to take your time, stargaze from Mt Bond, and watch the sunset or sunrise over Bondcliff.

Bonds Traverse PDF


****/3 out of 5

Distance/Elevation Gain

20 miles w/3700′ of cumulative elevation gain

White Mountain 4000 Footers

  • Zealand
  • West Bond
  • Mt Bond
  • Bondcliff

Recommended Duration

2 days


June thru October

Permits Required



Backcountry Camping Regulations for the White Mountain National Forest.

This route passes through the Pemigewasset Wilderness Area. Please observe all wilderness area restrictions. 

New to the White Mountains? Read this Quick and Dirty Guide to Backpacking in the White Mountains for information about camping regulations, road access, trail shuttles, lodging, dangerous wildlife, weather, etc.

Trailhead Directions

Trail Sequence

The route follows the following trails in sequence. Refer to the AMC White Mountains Trail Map 2: Franconia-Pemigewasset (2017 ed), which is the best waterproof map available for this region, although I’d recommend buying the complete AMC White Mountain Waterproof Map Set (2017 ed) rather than one map at a time, because it’s less expensive that way.

Detailed trail descriptions can also be found in the AMC White Mountain Guide (2017 ed), which is considered the hiking bible for the region. Take photos of the relevant pages using your phone for easy reference, instead of carrying the entire book with you on hikes.

  • Zealand Trail – 2.3 miles
  • Ethan Pond Trail – 0.2 miles
  • Twinway – 3.1 miles
  • Zealand Mountain Spur Trail 0.2 miles (out and back)
  • Twinway – 1.3 miles
  • Bondcliff Trail – 0.8 miles
  • West Bond Spur – 1.0 miles (out and back)
  • Bondcliff Trail – 7.9 miles
  • Lincoln Woods Trail – 2.9 miles

20 miles with 3700′ elevation gain.

Scenic Highlights

The following list provides cumulative distances on the route to each view or landmark.

  • Zealand Hut/Zealand Falls – 2.7 miles
  • Zeacliff Viewpoint – 4.2 miles
  • Zealand Summit – 5.8 miles
  • Mt Guyot Summit – 7.1 miles
  • West Bond Summit – 8.4 miles
  • Mt Bond Summit – 9.4 miles
  • Bondcliff Summit – 10.5 miles
  • Franconia Falls – 16.9 miles

Camping and Shelter Options


Natural water sources are plentiful in the White Mountains although you may need to descend to them from ridgelines along side trails if you run short. In any case, carry a detailed topographic map with you and don’t rely on the overview map provided with this trip description to find water sources.

The Appalachian Mountain Clubs Huts are closed in 2020 due to CovId-19. Water is available outside however, by spigot, and some have restrooms available. Water is also reportedly available on Mt Washington. All Randolph Mountain Club Cabins and are closed for 2020, but the tentsites are now open on a first come first serve basis.

I also recommend purchasing the WMNF Pemigewasset Map in Guthook Guide’s New England Hiker Smartphone App (IOSAndroid) which is a GPS guide to all of the trails, trailhead, shelters, campsites, views, and water sources in the White Mountains National Forest. I use it all the time and it is much more complete and current than using the maps bundled with the Gaia Smartphone App.

On the Trail

This route starts at the Zealand Trailhead at the end of Zealand Road. Follow the Zealand Trail towards the AMC’s Zealand Hut passing through forest and across a few easy stream crossings. While hidden by trees, the Zealand River runs besides the trail with numerous pools and cascades where you can swim or wade in hot weather.

Raised walkways over beaver ponds
Raised walkways over beaver ponds

You soon enter a wetland area, where the trail crosses numerous beaver ponds over wooden walkways and bridges. The foliage here is breathtaking in Autumn, when the valley and surrounding hills explode in seasonal color.

After passing a trail junction with the A-Z Trail, the Zealand Trail ends. Continue along the Ethan Pond Trail for 0.2 miles toward the AMC’s Zealand Hut. Turn right when you reach the Twinway Trail junction and continue 0.2 miles to the hut. Before you reach it, there is a short spur trail on your left to Zealand Falls which is pretty, especially after rainfall.

Appalachian Mountain Club's Zealand Hut
Appalachian Mountain Club’s Zealand Hut

Drop your pack on the porch and go inside the hut to check it out. While reservations are required for overnight guests, anyone can pop into an AMC hut during the day and buy snacks, top off water bottles or use the facilities. All of the huts post daily forecasts and have weather instruments that you can check, along with maps, and guidebooks.

From the hut, continue along the Twinway, climbing steeply for 1.2 miles to Zeacliff, a cliff-side viewpoint down a short side trail (signed) overlooking Zealand Notch that has a great view of Mt Carrigain in the distance. Continue along the Twinway toward Zealand Mountain, passing another trail to your left to Zeacliff Pond, a small alpine pond, which also has a good view of Carrigain. In 1.0 miles, you’ll come to another spur trail on your right which leads to the viewless Zealand Mountain summit and its hand-carved summit sign.

Zealand Mountain Summit Sign
Zealand Mountain Summit Sign

Retrace your steps and turn right when you reach the Twinway,  heading toward Mt Guyot. Guyot (pronounced Gee-oh with a hard ‘G’) is a bald dome covered with low lying shrubs, called krummholz, a German word used to describe the stunted trees that grow on exposed mountain tops above treeline. The Twinway continues over Guyot and leads to the Bondcliff Trail junction. Turn left onto the Bondcliff Trail and follow it 0.8 miles to the Guyot Shelter and Tentsite Spur. I’d recommend that you stay here overnight because it the only spot with a reliable water source for some distance.

Mt Guyot
Mt Guyot

The West Bond Spur Trail leaves the  Bondcliff Trail just 0.2 miles past the side trail to the Guyot Shelter and Tentsite. The open summit is a short hike through stunted trees. This is probably the best viewpoint in the White Mountains to admire Bondcliff’s graceful ridge and a wonderful spot to enjoy the sunset or sunrise. Just be sure to bring a headlamp.

Avalanches scar the face of West Bond Mountain
Avalanches scar the face of West Bond Mountain

Backtrack to the Bondcliff Trail and turn right to summit Mt Bond in just 0.5 miles. Mt Bond also has great views.  It is high enough at 4698′ that you can see the Presidential Range to the northeast and Franconia Ridge to the West.

Mt Bond
Mt Bond

While West Bond and Mt Bond have been easy to climb so far, the same can’t be said about Bondcliff Mountain. Leaving Mt Bond, the Bondcliff Trail descends steeply down a boulder choked trail that’s slow going until you reach the first open ledges on about 1 mile away. This is also a very hot section of trail in summer when the sun beating down on the rocks. Be sure to carry plenty of water and to stay hydrated. Also use caution when hiking along the cliff in fog or high winds. The steep valley below the cliffs is called Hellgate.

Bondcliff Mountain - A sight that never gets old
Bondcliff Mountain – A sight that never gets old

Midway down the cliff, there’s a prow-like ledge that juts out from the cliff and is the perfect place to stand for a portrait with West Bond and Mt Bond in the background. Countless hikers have had their photos taken here and it’s a right-of-passage for many 4000 footer peakbaggers

When you’re ready to leave Bondcliff, proceed down the ridge towards treeline, scrambling down a 15 foot rock ledge called “Hillary’s Step.” I’ve found the best way to climb down this is backwards, so you can maintain a firm grip on the handholds. From here, the trail drops steadily back down to the Pemigewasset River passing through forest with a few easy stream crossings. These may be dry in summer, so don’t count on finding water at them. Significant portions of this trail have been heavily eroded from recent storms, so take your time in descending.

Take a hard right turn at the base of the descent, continuing along the Bondcliff Trail, following an old railroad right of way. Many of the railroad ties are still in evidence to this day.

Railroad ties
Railroad ties

After crossing a bridge over Franconia Brook, there’s a short spur trail to your right which leads to Franconia Falls, one of the most scenic waterfalls and swimming holes in the Whites. There are a series off cascades, slides, and pools here that you can frolic in or just soak your feet in the river to cool them off.

Lovely Franconia Falls
Lovely Franconia Falls

If you decide to bypass the spur trail, continue along the Lincoln Woods Trail along the Pemigewasset River, which also provide numerous swimming opportunities. Cross a suspension bridge over the river in 2.9 miles, which leads to the Lincoln Woods Trailhead and the end of this route.

About the author

Philip Werner has hiked and backpacked over 7500 miles in the United States and the UK and written over 2500 articles as the founder of, noted for its backpacking gear reviews and hiking FAQs. A devotee of New Hampshire and Maine hiking and backpacking, Philip is the 36th person to hike all 650 of the hiking trails in the White Mountain Guide and is 98% of the way through a second round. Philip is the author of Backpacking the White Mountain 4000 Footers, a free online guidebook of the best backpacking trips in the White Mountains in New Hampshire and Maine. He lives in New Hampshire.

Safety Disclaimer

This trip plan can not alert you to every hazard, anticipate your experience, or limitations. Therefore, the descriptions of roads, trails, routes, shelters, tent sites, and natural features in this trip plan are not representations that a particular place or excursion will be safe for you or members of your party. When you follow any of the routes described on, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Under normal conditions, such excursions require the usual attention to traffic, road and trail conditions, weather, terrain, the capabilities of your party, and other factors. Always check for current conditions, obey posted signs, and Backcountry Camping and Wilderness Area Regulations. Hike Safe and follow the Hiker responsibility code. 

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  1. Philip, 2.8 miles north of Lincoln Woods Visitors Center, there is a bridge over the Franconia Brook at its confluence with the East Pemi River. Effeminately across the East Pemi from the bridge, the map shows a large primitive campground. Do you know if it is possible to ford the East Pemi at this location?

    • That bridge was removed years ago. I wouldn’t ford the East pemi if you paid me. It’s just too dangerous.
      The Thoreau Falls bridge has also since been removed.
      It’s only safe up near stillwater junction.
      You might find this trip report interesting.

      • Thanks for the quick reply. I guess I should have included my proposed trip date: July. I’ll check out that trip report. Thanks again.

      • Do you think it can be crossed with a packraft?

      • Do you know how to ferry (cross a river) with a packraft?
        Honestly, it would be a heck of a lot easier to just walk down to the bridge and back up the other side, or go to that north river crossing I mentioned.
        And you still couldn’t pay me to ford the Pemi in July (said the former class 4 white water kayaker/creek boater)

  2. ill take your word for it. thanks again.

  3. Emanuel Pariser

    Hi Philip, I am planning a three day trip to the Bonds, dropping a car off at Lincoln Woods and hiking from Zealand to Lincoln along the path you have suggested, with an overnight at guyot. This would be in mid June.
    I am coming from Maine, and my sons are driving/flying from the south. Where would you suggest we could stay our first day in NH, before starting from Zealand? Also, is the water at guyot good to drink without filtering or should we pack enough water for the whole two day hike?
    Thanks very much for your great website.

    • A motel. Bring a water filter. Learn how to use one. It will save you a lot of grief.

      • Emanuel Pariser

        Ok, great many thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

      • You do need a filter at a campsite that hosts 75 people on a busy weekend. Consider just how much water you’d have to carry for a 25 mile hike over 2 days and you’ll see the logic of carrying a filter.

    • I don’t know many water sources I’d personally drink from these days without filtering. My brother used to tease me for filtering my water when we hiked together in Montana. After he had a bout with Giardia, the teasing stopped… and his filtering started!

  4. I am a total newbie to hiking, (not camping) and I am looking for some trails to hike with my wife, with at least one or 2 over nights in probably a small tent, or hammocks. Can you please suggest one or 2 of these trails that might be worth hiking. Thinking sometime late June or early August of 2020.
    Thank you,

  5. If I hike from Zealand Trailhead to Lincoln woods that would be ~20 miles correct? And then without a car I’d have to hike the 20miles back to Zealand lot?

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